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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. However, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.